I've painted many minis (around 150), but I have never done a wash on smaller (Medium-sized) minis, just on Large or bigger minis, and I just copied Realmsmith's mini-painting vids for them. However, I've decided to put dark washes and some highlights on all my medium-sized minis (!), and I've got a few questions. 

According to the "Paint by Numbers" Dragon+ article, to make a dark wash, you mix the basecoat with black or brown (I assume brown for pinkish/skin-colored areas and similar, black for everything else) and water and put it on. The problem with that is, I feel that that wouldn't put much shadows on the mini: it's just slightly darker then the basecoat.

The other method I've heard of is to just put a black wash on most areas for shadow, and a brown wash on all skin-colored and similar areas. The problem is, this would darken up the mini quite a bit, unless it was a very light wash. It would be easy to just paint minis slightly lighter, but as I said, I've already painted these minis, and they are dark enough. I've had some people suggest to use a Q-tip to wipe the wash off all higher areas, just leaving it in the cracks. The problem with that is, it's gonna be really hard to wipe off all higher areas on a small mini, especially as it will be hard to fit a Q-tip into tighter areas, and frankly, I don't have the time to wipe off every mini I do with a Q-tip.

So, does the first method provide satisfactory shadows, or not? I'm a little skeptical, but if it does, I'll just go with it. If it doesn't, I don't think either of the second methods would work, so does anyone know of any alternatives?

EDIT: I haven't done it before now cause the minis are so small I don't think anyone would notice. Can anyone attest to whether or not anyone would notice?

I think the best answer I can give is test, the mix of base and black/brown will give you more control of how dark your shadows get (adjusting your dark to base ratio)

I watch a few mini painters on YouTube which has given me lots of technique options. (Mostly I watch Goobertown hobbies, Miniac, and Black Magic Crafts) I think Black Magic shared their wash recipe, but I remember that being more geared to terrain.

Toss up a picture of the one you're working on, if you can! It'll be easier to gauge an appropriate response according to your style and proficiency, and the nature of the mini. (If it's a bulk "mob" mini for personal use, then it's often easier to cut a few corner since it isn't going to get much of a spotlight. If it's a recurring PC/NPC mini, then it might be worth the extra time investment.)

I definitely recommend buying a wash/shade from a miniature painting company like Citadel, rather than mixing your own. The specific formulation and additives provide a much more reliable effect.

Quote from Memnosyne >>

 

Toss up a picture of the one you're working on, if you can! It'll be easier to gauge an appropriate response according to your style and proficiency, and the nature of the mini. (If it's a bulk "mob" mini for personal use, then it's often easier to cut a few corner since it isn't going to get much of a spotlight. If it's a recurring PC/NPC mini, then it might be worth the extra time investment.)

I definitely recommend buying a wash/shade from a miniature painting company like Citadel, rather than mixing your own. The specific formulation and additives provide a much more reliable effect.

 Here's a pic. Sorry it isn't very good quality. Also, what would the cheapest miniature wash be? 

Ah, nice! Your mini looks plenty bright to benefit from a quick dark wash!

I personally use CITADEL Shade NULN OIL for everything. Listed for $6.99 on Miniature market, and most game shops will be well stocked. A little bit goes a long way, so it's 100% worth picking up a bottle.

I've also been playing with their "contrast" line, which can be layered to build a contrast gradient right into the base coat.

If you don't mind a little constructive feedback, it looks like your paint may be being applied a bit thick. Thinning the paint with water and building up several layers will let you preserve a lot more detail.

You should also look into making a "wet palette", which is basically just layering parchment paper on top of a damp paper towel inside of a "sealable" container. I use two large yogurt lids, one as the tray, the other (slightly larger one) as the lid. This will keep your paints wet almost indefinitely.

I enjoyed the G&S Painters Guild series, and highly recommend watching "speed painting" videos for some great time saving tips.

Here's a quick peek at my heavily neglected painting station:

Quote from Memnosyne >>

Ah, nice! Your mini looks plenty bright to benefit from a quick dark wash!

I personally use CITADEL Shade NULN OIL for everything. Listed for $6.99 on Miniature market, and most game shops will be well stocked. A little bit goes a long way, so it's 100% worth picking up a bottle.

I've also been playing with their "contrast" line, which can be layered to build a contrast gradient right into the base coat.

If you don't mind a little constructive feedback, it looks like your paint may be being applied a bit thick. Thinning the paint with water and building up several layers will let you preserve a lot more detail.

You should also look into making a "wet palette", which is basically just layering parchment paper on top of a damp paper towel inside of a "sealable" container. I use two large yogurt lids, one as the tray, the other (slightly larger one) as the lid. This will keep your paints wet almost indefinitely.

---

I enjoyed the G&S Painters Guild series, and highly recommend watching "speed painting" videos for some great time saving tips.

Here's a quick peek at my heavily neglected painting station:

Key Features to note:

(1) Wet Palette
(2) Wooden dowels + poster putty (mini holder)
(3) Glue stick + poster putty (even mini-er holder)
(4) lego holder stand (Nice for letting base coats dry on multiple minis simultaneously
(5) Paint/brush/tool rack (Made from 2 pieces of wire shelving spaced ~1.5in apart.)
(6) Magnifier Light (For fine detail)

Normally, I have a large sheet of parchment paper protecting the whole desk area.

 Thanks, that is super helpful! Yes, the mini is painted a little thick. I would thin my paints, which would quickly get thick and clumpy again (probably from the heat from the light I use), and your wet palette tips are exactly what I need!

PS I use the same DecoArt paints you've got in your pic (though the one in the pic was painted using a glossy paint whos brand I can't recall)

Quote from Memnosyne >>

Ah, nice! Your mini looks plenty bright to benefit from a quick dark wash!

I personally use CITADEL Shade NULN OIL for everything. Listed for $6.99 on Miniature market, and most game shops will be well stocked. A little bit goes a long way, so it's 100% worth picking up a bottle.

I've also been playing with their "contrast" line, which can be layered to build a contrast gradient right into the base coat.

If you don't mind a little constructive feedback, it looks like your paint may be being applied a bit thick. Thinning the paint with water and building up several layers will let you preserve a lot more detail.

You should also look into making a "wet palette", which is basically just layering parchment paper on top of a damp paper towel inside of a "sealable" container. I use two large yogurt lids, one as the tray, the other (slightly larger one) as the lid. This will keep your paints wet almost indefinitely.

---

I enjoyed the G&S Painters Guild series, and highly recommend watching "speed painting" videos for some great time saving tips.

Here's a quick peek at my heavily neglected painting station:

Key Features to note:

(1) Wet Palette
(2) Wooden dowels + poster putty (mini holder)
(3) Glue stick + poster putty (even mini-er holder)
(4) lego holder stand (Nice for letting base coats dry on multiple minis simultaneously
(5) Paint/brush/tool rack (Made from 2 pieces of wire shelving spaced ~1.5in apart.)
(6) Magnifier Light (For fine detail)

Normally, I have a large sheet of parchment paper protecting the whole desk area.

 Quick question, how does the Nuln Oil Shade look on skin tones?

Quote from legolasgreenleaf333 >>

Quote from Memnosyne >>

Ah, nice! Your mini looks plenty bright to benefit from a quick dark wash!

I personally use CITADEL Shade NULN OIL for everything. Listed for $6.99 on Miniature market, and most game shops will be well stocked. A little bit goes a long way, so it's 100% worth picking up a bottle.

I've also been playing with their "contrast" line, which can be layered to build a contrast gradient right into the base coat.

If you don't mind a little constructive feedback, it looks like your paint may be being applied a bit thick. Thinning the paint with water and building up several layers will let you preserve a lot more detail.

You should also look into making a "wet palette", which is basically just layering parchment paper on top of a damp paper towel inside of a "sealable" container. I use two large yogurt lids, one as the tray, the other (slightly larger one) as the lid. This will keep your paints wet almost indefinitely.

---

I enjoyed the G&S Painters Guild series, and highly recommend watching "speed painting" videos for some great time saving tips.

Here's a quick peek at my heavily neglected painting station:

Key Features to note:

(1) Wet Palette
(2) Wooden dowels + poster putty (mini holder)
(3) Glue stick + poster putty (even mini-er holder)
(4) lego holder stand (Nice for letting base coats dry on multiple minis simultaneously
(5) Paint/brush/tool rack (Made from 2 pieces of wire shelving spaced ~1.5in apart.)
(6) Magnifier Light (For fine detail)

Normally, I have a large sheet of parchment paper protecting the whole desk area.

 Quick question, how does the Nuln Oil Shade look on skin tones?

I was going to take a picture of one of my minis to show you, then realized that I don't actually have any with human skin tones.

Nuln Oil is best for representing shadow and a bit of grime, which is generally appropriate for adventurers. It's nice as a "whole mini" wash. If you want a more "clean" look, they do also offer more flesh tone options.

Personally, I wouldn't worry about color matching the wash at this stage, especially on medium and smaller minis. Once you've painted a few minis with the wet palette to bring out the fine sculpted details, then the color play will be much more rewarding.

Quote from Memnosyne >>

Quote from legolasgreenleaf333 >>

Quote from Memnosyne >>

Ah, nice! Your mini looks plenty bright to benefit from a quick dark wash!

I personally use CITADEL Shade NULN OIL for everything. Listed for $6.99 on Miniature market, and most game shops will be well stocked. A little bit goes a long way, so it's 100% worth picking up a bottle.

I've also been playing with their "contrast" line, which can be layered to build a contrast gradient right into the base coat.

If you don't mind a little constructive feedback, it looks like your paint may be being applied a bit thick. Thinning the paint with water and building up several layers will let you preserve a lot more detail.

You should also look into making a "wet palette", which is basically just layering parchment paper on top of a damp paper towel inside of a "sealable" container. I use two large yogurt lids, one as the tray, the other (slightly larger one) as the lid. This will keep your paints wet almost indefinitely.

---

I enjoyed the G&S Painters Guild series, and highly recommend watching "speed painting" videos for some great time saving tips.

Here's a quick peek at my heavily neglected painting station:

Key Features to note:

(1) Wet Palette
(2) Wooden dowels + poster putty (mini holder)
(3) Glue stick + poster putty (even mini-er holder)
(4) lego holder stand (Nice for letting base coats dry on multiple minis simultaneously
(5) Paint/brush/tool rack (Made from 2 pieces of wire shelving spaced ~1.5in apart.)
(6) Magnifier Light (For fine detail)

Normally, I have a large sheet of parchment paper protecting the whole desk area.

 Quick question, how does the Nuln Oil Shade look on skin tones?

I was going to take a picture of one of my minis to show you, then realized that I don't actually have any with human skin tones.

Nuln Oil is best for representing shadow and a bit of grime, which is generally appropriate for adventurers. It's nice as a "whole mini" wash. If you want a more "clean" look, they do also offer more flesh tone options.

Personally, I wouldn't worry about color matching the wash at this stage, especially on medium and smaller minis. Once you've painted a few minis with the wet palette to bring out the fine sculpted details, then the color play will be much more rewarding.

 I just got the Shade and was wondering if it would benefit from a bi of thinning, or if it works fine as is? Excuse my newbness, I've never used a pre-made wash before, only made them myself.

Questions are always welcome. As long as the asker is genuinely interested in learning, teaching is a privilege and a pleasure.

I use it exactly as is. Dip the brush, wash the whole mini, then quickly dry the brush to use as a wick if the wash pools too heavily in any particular spot.

Anything new is going to have at least a small learning curve, so it's a good idea to have a "testing" mini that you don't mind experimenting on. Once you see how it works in person, the process quickly becomes intuitive.

If you have any unpainted minis, try washing one of those first. It will show you a somewhat ideal scenario, and will be painted over anyway.

Quote from Memnosyne >>

Questions are always welcome. As long as the asker is genuinely interested in learning, teaching is a privilege and a pleasure.

I use it exactly as is. Dip the brush, wash the whole mini, then quickly dry the brush to use as a wick if the wash pools too heavily in any particular spot.

Anything new is going to have at least a small learning curve, so it's a good idea to have a "testing" mini that you don't mind experimenting on. Once you see how it works in person, the process quickly becomes intuitive.

 Thanks! Like I said, I've done washes before, but I've never used a premade wash, just ones I mixed up myself, so I was wondering if it needed any thinning like most paints.

Got it. I haven't tried the full breadth of their products, but I believe most of Citadel's paints/inks are formulated to be ready to go right out of the bottle. As long as they slosh, rather than gloop, it should be appropriate for direct application.

Quote from Memnosyne >>

Got it. I haven't tried the full breadth of their products, but I believe most of Citadel's paints/inks are formulated to be ready to go right out of the bottle. As long as they slosh, rather than gloop, it should be appropriate for direct application.

 I'm very happy with the wash and I'm actually thinking of getting a whole set of them, as they seem more affordable then Vallejo and MUCH better quality then my usual paints.

Excellent! Having the right tools makes all the difference in the world.